Tuesday, July 28, 2009

The linen jacket

I doubt that I am alone in having clothes in my closet that seemed like a good idea at the time. Generally, if I wait a while, they either grow on me and I love them forever or I see the mistake and rid myself of their memory pretty quickly.

I do like clothes with a bit of a twist. Especially jackets.

This was the first jacket I'd ever had made, and it took a long time to come around to it. It was too stark, too white. Several years on its beginning to mellow wonderfully. The wool is taking on a nicely aged yellowed patina.

From the looks of it, its a standard white dinner jacket. Double breasted, shawl collar. I love shawl collars. Although you can't tell from the photo, its made to button only at the bottom, a style popularized by the Duke of Windsor's more famous brother.

While its never seen a formal dinner, it does get much use as a summer sport coat. With a pair of red, or blue poplin pants its the bees knees. Wear black and your mistaken for a waiter. Super 140 Merino wool, light as a feather.

Several weeks ago I asked your recommendations for a jacket similar to this.
From Mr. Mort

I listened. Thank you for saving me from myself. I did not buy the black linen, as much as I wanted to. Instead I selected this.

It's a 14 ounce, unbleached natural linen. It nowhere near as light as this picture shows. Think the tan in a Eileen Fisher ad.

I spent Monday morning with the tailor.

Within three weeks this scrap of fabric will turn into a one button, shawl collared, patch pocketed, unconstructed jacket. The effect I am going for is almost a sweater (I get cold in A/C). Side vents, surgeon sleeves, sleeve buttonholes outlined in darker brown thread. It will never see a tie, but if all works as I hope, it may get worn out from wear long before its due. If it doesn't a year or two in the closet will fix it.



The Blushing Hostess said...

The dinner jacket is wonderful - so glad someone still does that. And the linen, the gentlemen in Charleston have that look down and can always be good models.

Be well.

ADG said...

Toad....the dinner jacket is superb and I love that you wear it with casual complements. My closet is full of creative ideas manifest in cloth. However, I've gotta say that what you have in the works is gonna be the BOMB my man. Off the hook perfecto....I'm just gonna tell you right now that I'm gonna make something similar based on your idea. Can't do it till 2010 but it'll be great to look forward to it.

Well done Toad.

Martha said...

DH has the same dinner jacket -- has had it "forever" and it, too, is aging nicely. He wears it to our community summertime gala and jokes that he only had to park two cars on the way in! I think he looks dashing!

As to the linen jacket I think it will be perfect.

longwing said...

Congrats on the linen jacket. Mine needs to be sent to ADG to get some of the newness out of it.

Toad said...

Thank you all for your comments. I hope to report back with the finished goods in several weeks.