what do you think?

The answers are often obvious once you get the questions right.

I do not know where the photo above is from, I snatched it from Manifest Destiny, who snatched it from...?. It feeds my linen jacket addiction and also inspired what I believe may be a great idea. I'll test it out on you first.

Over the past few summers I've had several linen sport coats made. At the time, I was larger, now very little of my summer wardrobe accommodates the new me. I'm not dismayed by that, nor since I still have a way to go, am I looking forward to shelling out for new duds. These are troubled times.

So it's back to the closet, and on to the tailor, making do with something old, something new. But what to do with the linen jacket collection?

Suppose they became double breasted jackets?

Admittedly, with the jaunty red and yellow numbers from Peterman, my signature summer look would be DB, but I could live with that. Beats letting old friends rot in the wardrobe.

Any thoughts?

Toad

The blue linen jacket

Once upon a time I mentioned a piece of heavy blue linen dropped into my lap. My plan was to have the alchemist convert it into an odd jacket in time for the Easter bunny. One thing led to another, and it was several months before we connected.

Connect we did though, and once again he has worked his magic. Earlier this week I paid a visit for the last fitting. Here is what I found. Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue...



Single button, patch pocket, side vent, 2 button cuff, peak lapel. A hybrid mix of formal peak lapel, and casual open patch pockets.



The sleeves need to be shortened, and I changed buttons at the last minute from brass and blue to something that matches the material. The lining which I forgot to snap is an old silk escape map.

The jacket will be ready Thursday so I'll include lining photos next Friday.

Toad

The jacket with a thousand fathers

If I were honest, I'd blame Ralph. His "Out of Africa" creations. They left an indelible impression. Khaki, olive drab, linen, perfect summer weather wear.

I don't look like Robert Redford, and I didn't/don't have Meryl's money, so for a young man putting together a working wardrobe, linen didn't make much sense. My masters would have shown me quickly to the door.

Fast forward a few years, until say 2007 or so. Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist published this photo.

I take a look in the mirror, and say I'm old enough to pull off a bit of linen. It's likely to be tough sell at home, but c'est l'vie.

Fast forward again to summer 2009. Schuman does it again.

I'm floored by the details of this jacket. Mentally, I'm composing my own. In the mean time I bought several linen suits. Research. I wanted to get a feel of how linen worked. I fell in love. I enjoyed the creases. However, the heavier the material the more rumples, the fewer wrinkles.

Scott begins to rub it in. I feel like I'm in "The Blues Brothers". It must be a mission from the gods. "Find a heavy linen jacket", they said.


I hesitated. I rationalized my sloth. Closet's too small, time to save some money, it's too late for this year, and on and on.

Then Mr. Mort adds his two cents worth. This is the jacket you were meant to have, said Mort.


Not so fast. If I was going to do it, it was going to be my way. Unlike one you would ever find in a store. Unlike one, I would ever see again.

Two weeks ago I succumbed. Made my list, went to the tailor. Sing like this I said.

Unconstructed, one button, shawl collar, side vents, patch pockets, working sleeve buttonholes picked in baby blue, half lined. I want to wear it like a cardigan sweater.

Today the tailor's translation of my vision came home. It was worth the wait. As I have said before, you need to think a problem through, thoroughly. Once you understand the problem, the solution is often obvious.

You've waited long enough. Here it is.


The blue stitching on the jacket button may have been a mistake. Easily fixable.

The cloth is still very stiff. Needs a bit of the Fred Astaire throw it against the wall treatment, or even better to be rolled up in a gym bag for a couple of weeks. I more likely to wear it soft. Also, it's surprisingly heavy. Not uncomfortably so, but noticeably.

I especially like the hand sewn edges along the collar.

Toad

Oh Happy Day

What a great day. First, the patch mad bow tie from Ellie LaVange Stager arrived. Gents, if you are bow tie inclined, get in touch with this woman immediately. This is the finest bow tie I have ever owned. I've paid much more for others, but I have never owned a better crafted tie. Thank you, thank you, thank you Ellie. My next order is in your email box.

Then the Polish tailor called and asked me to try on the linen jacket. First fittings are always somewhat disappointing, but eventually things worked out. Minor adjustments included lining the front, in order to have inside pockets, and half the back, just because. The sleeve buttonhole color was changed from a darker brown to baby blue. I was wearing a Ralph gingham with just the right shade of blue pony. Somehow it felt right although I worry it might be too much. Time will fix it. The edging of the shawl collar is being hand stitched, that is what's taking the bulk of the time. I should be able to pick it up Friday.

Finally, daughter Katy is spending the weekend with us. She was looking for a little heat, just to remember what Summer is like. We should be able to oblige.

Have a great weekend. If you are new around these parts, stop in and say hello. I'm glad you're here.

Toad

The linen jacket

I doubt that I am alone in having clothes in my closet that seemed like a good idea at the time. Generally, if I wait a while, they either grow on me and I love them forever or I see the mistake and rid myself of their memory pretty quickly.

I do like clothes with a bit of a twist. Especially jackets.


This was the first jacket I'd ever had made, and it took a long time to come around to it. It was too stark, too white. Several years on its beginning to mellow wonderfully. The wool is taking on a nicely aged yellowed patina.

From the looks of it, its a standard white dinner jacket. Double breasted, shawl collar. I love shawl collars. Although you can't tell from the photo, its made to button only at the bottom, a style popularized by the Duke of Windsor's more famous brother.

While its never seen a formal dinner, it does get much use as a summer sport coat. With a pair of red, or blue poplin pants its the bees knees. Wear black and your mistaken for a waiter. Super 140 Merino wool, light as a feather.

Several weeks ago I asked your recommendations for a jacket similar to this.

From Mr. Mort

I listened. Thank you for saving me from myself. I did not buy the black linen, as much as I wanted to. Instead I selected this.


It's a 14 ounce, unbleached natural linen. It nowhere near as light as this picture shows. Think the tan in a Eileen Fisher ad.

I spent Monday morning with the tailor.

Within three weeks this scrap of fabric will turn into a one button, shawl collared, patch pocketed, unconstructed jacket. The effect I am going for is almost a sweater (I get cold in A/C). Side vents, surgeon sleeves, sleeve buttonholes outlined in darker brown thread. It will never see a tie, but if all works as I hope, it may get worn out from wear long before its due. If it doesn't a year or two in the closet will fix it.

Toad

Add your two cents worth

Photo from Mr. Mort

I think I want a linen sport coat. Just like this one. Heavy weight linen, say 300 grams, probably black. Unlined, open patch pockets, surgeon cuffs, side vents. What am I missing?

So what brought that on all of the sudden? I spent a bit of yesterday afternoon with my dear friend the Polish tailor. Last fall I had a modern Blackwatch plaid sport coat made, that I was never really happy with. For multiple reasons it just didn't fit well.

So, being bored, I spent a little time cleaning up my closet and came across it. In a fit of pre-planning I'd rarely experienced in my life, thought why not get it fixed in advance of when I need it. Sounds like a plan.


In pure tailor speak, he led with, put on a little weight huh? I allowed that for once that wasn't the case,and to prove it, I had brought the jacket he made the month prior to the blackwatch. Fits like a dream.

So now I wait, but while there I fell in love with a piece of black linen fabric.

By the way, our friend Cristoffer, of the Well Dressed blog gave up the ghost yesterday. His blog shall be missed.

Toad