20 hours ago
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Tailors, and a book review
In sheer desperation I consulted reference librarian, ADG of Maxminimus for a recommendation on a book I wanted to order. He choked at my choice, and instantly wrote that "my eyes should fall out reading such trash, read this instead." Where upon he sent me a link to Richard Anderson's book, Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed.
The book wasn't bad, but I don't believe it had the effect the author intended. Mr. Anderson was a long time tailor at the reknown Savile Row tailor Huntsman.
Over time Huntsman, lost their way, falling from the the top rung, to become just another shop, albeit the priciest on the Row, and that's saying something.
Anderson got out in time, and hung his own shingle, next door to his old firm, and is doing very well thank you. The point I took from the book, was most of the stuff on the Row is so-so, the big names fall, and you're most likely to leave Savile Row, down the price of a new car, for a suit that you're likely to be unhappy with.
Another voice in the wilderness is Steven Hitchcock of The Savile Row Tailor. He took over Alexander McQueen's seat when McQueen left Anderson and Sheppard. His blog often focus's on conducting a post mortem (ripping apart other tailors clothes) to see how well they are constructed. Often he is not amused.
Which is long way to get to my point.
A length of 10 ounce navy linen cloth showed up on my doorstep yesterday. Enough for a jacket, but probably not a DB. I've spent the day scrounging pieces to take to the tailor, so that he can work his alchemy.
The lining will be an old silk escape map.
The buttons from a Benson and Clegg set.
Now for the details, stealing heavily again from ADG.
One button front. This was an old Huntsman conceit. Their jackets are cut like body armour. My body is not, but I like the look.
Two button sleeves. It's all I have buttons for.
Side vents. As a right hand in my pants pocket man, I just like the way side vented coats move.
Besome pockets with ticket pocket. I keep Mrs. T's smoking supplies in there.
I haven't decided on the collar yet. If there is enough for a DB, then shawl. Otherwise, I just don't know, and am open to suggestions.
Finally, I'm torn. The material feels like it wants to soak in a tub for a couple of days before being handed off. Any ideas?
With luck, if I drop it off soon, I may get it back before the Easter bunny hits town.