Too Much of a Good Thing?

Once upon a time, I wrote about that most unsung of American tailoring heroes, Mr.Sidney Winston. Mr. Winston, when he wasn't working on JFK's new suit, was the creative genius behind such American classics as the 4 panel pants, embroidered cords, and perhaps most famously, the patch madras jacket.



As my mother would periodically exclaim, especially near election time, "if a million people have a bad idea, it is still a bad idea." Sometimes though, even good ideas go bad. Rarely do they turn rancid all at once. Bad ideas need time to fester.

The jacket below, from Huntsman, just might fall into the good idea going bad category. It's good enough to be entertaining, but...



Patch Tweed. I doubt many British clients will sign up for this number, it feels too American.

Lest you be confused, I like patch tweed, in moderation. Last fall, Ellie Stager created a PT scarf for me, which I will wear until I die, if I can get it away from my bride.


To get to the good idea going rancid, we need to turn to the latest Orvis catalog. I have a love/hate relationship with Orvis. I like the idea of many of their clothes, it's the execution which leaves me cold. I want their stuff to work,especially their tartan trousers, yet it rarely does on me.

From their catalog I present the patch tartan jacket. Another idea which should work. Has a the right bells and whistles, is priced fairly, yet falls flat.



A man needs to limit himself to one variety of patch. To patch in all seasons is trying too hard. I'm sticking with the summer mad, thank you very much.

Toad

Odds and Ends

Window shopping throughout the Empire the past several days has turned up several interesting items. I also learned a thing or two.

1. Ellie Stager, the Cordial Churchman,tired of fielding requests for my one off patch tweed scarf, has decided to make them available to any and all. I love mine, but she has added a couple of twists which I think you too will like. She has graciously consented to name them after moi. You may order your own Toad from Ellie.

2. The Balmoral Bonnet: this may surprise some of our European readers, but were you aware that most Scottish hats are made in Pakistan? I'm unsure why that caught me off guard, but it did. Seems there is a guy, that everyone in the hat bus knows, who knows a guy who makes them. Mine should arrive in a couple of months. Thank you to all who helped in my search.

3. Fat men need to be careful when wearing tartan. Too much horizontal stripe, and you look like the Michelin man gone bad, or the Duke of Windsor's grandfather, Edward VII.

For you young, trim, rakes looking to add a little color to your rainment, might I suggest a pair of genuine, official, British army issue tartan trousers. You may find them here. 25 GBP less VAT. Not bad. 4 tartan choices are available.

4. Stable Belts: Once upon a time, Tintin of The Trad wrote about stable belts. I hadn't a clue what he was talking about. I thought it must be a surcingle belt in regimental colors and left it at that.

Last week my Brit Khaki's arrived. The long pants and the drill shorts have a double belt closure, which struck me as dumber than dirt. What did I know?That double belt closure, derived from cavalry uniforms, is known as a stable belt.

In the 1950's regiments began having belts made in their regimental colors. In addition to the double belt, alternative buckles are available.

5. Sting and The Police: Sunday's NYT book review pages had an interesting factoid. Each member of the band, The Police has written an autobiography. Collectively, 10 pages deal with the band.

Keep your shady side up today and happy shopping.

Toad

Ellie did it!!!!!

Those with long memories may recall I made some minor effort to convince my buddy and favorite bow tie maker Ellie Stager to create a patch tweed winter scarf. My timing was initially poor, since Ellie did not care to make such a heavy item while it was still summer in her little corner of South Carolina.

None the less she eventually came around, and sent the following photo for my consideration.





Immediately I jumped at the opportunity and commissioned my first bespoke scarf.

A week later it arrived. Mrs. T immediately claimed it as hers. Ellie says it was a one off, so my search continues.



Toad