Tailors, and a book review

In sheer desperation I consulted reference librarian, ADG of Maxminimus for a recommendation on a book I wanted to order. He choked at my choice, and instantly wrote that "my eyes should fall out reading such trash, read this instead." Where upon he sent me a link to Richard Anderson's book, Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed.

The book wasn't bad, but I don't believe it had the effect the author intended. Mr. Anderson was a long time tailor at the reknown Savile Row tailor Huntsman.



Over time Huntsman, lost their way, falling from the the top rung, to become just another shop, albeit the priciest on the Row, and that's saying something.

Anderson got out in time, and hung his own shingle, next door to his old firm, and is doing very well thank you. The point I took from the book, was most of the stuff on the Row is so-so, the big names fall, and you're most likely to leave Savile Row, down the price of a new car, for a suit that you're likely to be unhappy with.

Another voice in the wilderness is Steven Hitchcock of The Savile Row Tailor. He took over Alexander McQueen's seat when McQueen left Anderson and Sheppard. His blog often focus's on conducting a post mortem (ripping apart other tailors clothes) to see how well they are constructed. Often he is not amused.

Which is long way to get to my point.

A length of 10 ounce navy linen cloth showed up on my doorstep yesterday. Enough for a jacket, but probably not a DB. I've spent the day scrounging pieces to take to the tailor, so that he can work his alchemy.



The lining will be an old silk escape map.



The buttons from a Benson and Clegg set.

Now for the details, stealing heavily again from ADG.

One button front. This was an old Huntsman conceit. Their jackets are cut like body armour. My body is not, but I like the look.

Two button sleeves. It's all I have buttons for.

Side vents. As a right hand in my pants pocket man, I just like the way side vented coats move.

Besome pockets with ticket pocket. I keep Mrs. T's smoking supplies in there.

I haven't decided on the collar yet. If there is enough for a DB, then shawl. Otherwise, I just don't know, and am open to suggestions.

Finally, I'm torn. The material feels like it wants to soak in a tub for a couple of days before being handed off. Any ideas?

With luck, if I drop it off soon, I may get it back before the Easter bunny hits town.

Toad

Local Tailors

I have two words to say about local tailors. Use Them!

Each of has learned the hard way that many of the clothes hanging in our closets look really good on hangers. Unfortunately, they don't always look good on us.

There is a simple reason for that. Off the rack clothing is not meant to fit living humans. We do not come in standard sizes. We're long waisted, short waisted, crooked, have one leg longer than another, etc. etc. etc.

Frankly, I think its a miracle that clothes fit as well as they do, but really how many adults are size models?

Sadly, I know little of fashion, or women's clothing. I've been married to a short woman, and a tall one, and both have complained that they cannot find clothes that fit. It's especially difficult if you have special requirements.

So let a tailor do his/her job. You have already bought the clothes, spend a few dollars more. Have the hem adjusted to fit you, take in a shoulder, let out a waist, refashion a favorite that may be out of style.

At the end of the day you will have a garment that fits you well. You'll look good in it. It will improve your confidence, now that's sexy.

Just sayin'

Finding a good tailor may take a little trial and error. If you don't know one, ask at a fabric store, try Craigslist, ask your favorite retailer. The right one is out there.

Toad

One of us was wrong

So I jumped out of bed this morning, got dressed and was at the tailor just about as early in the morning as I'm ever likely to show up anywhere.


Tried on jacket one. It felt like pj's. Heaven

Tried on jacket two. A bit heavier but again it felt a light as skin.

Then I looked in the mirror. The skirt of each jacket was about two inches past my hand. Looked like a zoot suit. After minor discussions regarding my height and his eyesight I agreed to return next Friday. Until then, we wait.

Toad

Link Cuffs

What's a man to do when he loves wearing cuff links, but hates wearing French (double) cuffs?

The answer as you may have guessed is called a link cuff, and it is easy to accomplish. A link cuff is a single length shirt cuff which instead of having a button and buttonhole, has two buttonholes. Therefore you have the benefit of cufflinks without the bulk of double cuffs.

French cuffed shirts are the most formal of men's business shirts, and are only to be worn with a suit, link cuffs can be as formal (they are the only acceptable cuff for daytime formal wear), or casual as you like depending upon the shirt style you choose. The beauty of the link cuff variation is that you can break several mens style rules at once.

-You can wear cuff links with a blazer or sport coat. American stylists deeply frown on this. It is seemingly acceptable in Britian and Europe though.

-You can wear cuff links with a button down shirt. Absolutely no one sells button downs with french cuffs off the rack.

-You have the opportunity to create your own fashion style. You will never meet someone else wearing a link cuff. There is a price for being different though. It takes a bit of nonchalance, or sprezzatura, as the Italians say, to pull this off with aplomb.

So, how do you get it. Very simple! Take your favorite shirt to your cleaners and ask them to remove the buttons from your cuff and sew in buttonholes. Most will do it for a very small change. Soon, you'll be asking your tailor to make them especially for you. He'll balk at first, but eventually he'll come around.

These are dangerous times, its time to try something new.

Toad