Couture

It's fun having an in house fashionista, I get to quiz her on fashion history. Today's question, "When was the first fashion magazine published?" Answer towards the end.

We think of made to measure clothing as the ultimate luxury but before the fashion industry was invented, made to measure was all there was, it was old hat and not terribly exciting even for the cream of society. What fun in wearing something unique to you.

Fun is wearing what can be imitated. How does a woman know if her gown is stylish if she can't see it on someone else? How do you establish that you set on a trend early if no one else can copy you. Likewise what do you do when you see clones of yourself wherever you turn? The most fashionable women in Paris 1670 had an answer.

In 1670 Duchesse de Berry invited her most stylish friends, the best seamstresses and tailors and most celebrated hairdressers to her home, there she presented a plan. That evening those present invented Couture. The women agreed to put away their one off gowns in favor of the tailors creating fashion for all. The fashion plates of the day ordered the new designers gowns be brought to them as soon as they were ready. Once the ladies of Versailles and the designers began working together to make fashion public the key ideas we take for granted quickly fell into place. The "look" the way an entire ensemble worked together, the fashion season, questions of what's in, what's out began to emerge. Accessories became important. For the first time women spent more than men on clothing. Within several years concepts that have lasted 350 years were put into place.

Within a very few years the couture houses began going retail and down market. To spread the new gospel of fashion for the masses, the fashion press was invented. In 1672 Le Mercure galant (Gallant Mercury) was the first newspaper to report on fashion.

I'm stuck in a most wonderful book, The Essence of Style by Joan DeJean. I'd read it before, lent it out and like a bad cold it returns, placed back on the shelf and taken down anew. I love this book for explaining simply why and how items we perceive as luxuries came into being. Champagne, diamonds, red soled shoes, couture, comfortable furniture are all French inventions. Amazingly all born around the same time, the late 1600's.

Toad

Spring showers

Spring has sprung, and with it comes spring showers.

Once upon a time a gentleman carried an umbrella as a matter of course. It was part of his daily uniform, along with hat and briefcase. A throwback to days of yore when a sword was appropriate day wear for a man's battle in the city.

It's tough to find a man with an umbrella these days. For suburban Masters of the Universe the automobile and underground parking have put paid to the necessity for such stylish accessories, along with hats. Consequently, it's tough to find a well made brolly.

Shantung Silk, long the preferred fabric of choice, has joined the rotary telephone on the dustbin of history. Today's better bumbershoots use a Jacquard silk, wool and cotton blend, coated with a bit of teflon to keep the drops off.

So what'sa guy to do? Give Maglia Francesco a shot. One of the few remaining bespoke umbrella makers, as well as manufacturers for James Smith and Sons, London's famous purveyor of brollys and walking/working sticks.

Regretfully, an umbrella made to suit your unique requirements isn't cheap or quick. There are lots of options to choose from. Alternatives do exist however. You can pick up a serviceable Maglia Francesco model off the rack. The greatest selection is at Rain or Shine, next try Paul Stuart or Barney's in New York.

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