While taking the weekend off, I haven't been lounging in the pool, I've been busy. I've acquired, another clothing pet peeve, droopy ankles.
This is another example where women are smarter than men. Allow me to explain.
By definition, clothing off the rack fits no one. Its not supposed to, it only gotta be close. A competent tailor can make it fit you later. As systems go, its mostly OK, but falls apart in the details. It implies an informed consumer and a competent tailor. Both are in short supply.
While having suit pants measured or pants altered, the tailor will begin at the waist. Do the pants fit comfortably there? If so, he works his way down. Does the seat fit. Do you want cuffs? Do you want a slight "break" at the bottom.
The photo above is from Alan Flusser's "Dressing the Man". Notice the left illustration. " Cuffed bottoms should rest with a slight break on top of the shoe". "Break" is defined as the amount of folding or creasing of a trouser bottom when it meets and sits on top of the shoe.
So how is this interpreted? Look at the ankles. Looks like hell don't they?
Several things cause this. Gravity is the main culprit. Clothing SHOULD hang from the shoulders. Suits especially. That is why for generations stylish men have worn braces. They hold pants up, far better than a belt will. Over the course of a day belted pants begin to sag, at the waist and down below. The other offender is an overly generous tailor.
Now look at these photos.
This is another example where women are smarter than men. Allow me to explain.
By definition, clothing off the rack fits no one. Its not supposed to, it only gotta be close. A competent tailor can make it fit you later. As systems go, its mostly OK, but falls apart in the details. It implies an informed consumer and a competent tailor. Both are in short supply.
While having suit pants measured or pants altered, the tailor will begin at the waist. Do the pants fit comfortably there? If so, he works his way down. Does the seat fit. Do you want cuffs? Do you want a slight "break" at the bottom.
The photo above is from Alan Flusser's "Dressing the Man". Notice the left illustration. " Cuffed bottoms should rest with a slight break on top of the shoe". "Break" is defined as the amount of folding or creasing of a trouser bottom when it meets and sits on top of the shoe.So how is this interpreted? Look at the ankles. Looks like hell don't they?
Several things cause this. Gravity is the main culprit. Clothing SHOULD hang from the shoulders. Suits especially. That is why for generations stylish men have worn braces. They hold pants up, far better than a belt will. Over the course of a day belted pants begin to sag, at the waist and down below. The other offender is an overly generous tailor.
Now look at these photos.
Which looks better? The straight elegant line, or the droopy puddle?
I prefer Mr Flusser's mid Atlantic solution. Once I noticed it, I couldn't get how badly the break looks out of my head. Women know the importance of the shoe, and would never intentionally draw attention away from it.
Toad
photos from The Sartorialist, and Well Dressed. Thank you.
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